How To Make Old Windows More Energy Efficient

Windows and doors can account for up to 25 per centum of total house heat loss. Windows and doors can be repaired, still at times it is best to replace them with more energy-efficient models. Proper installation and maintenance also play a key part in saving energy and improving comfort. Learn near upgrading or replacing windows and doors.

Chapter Summary

8.ane WINDOWS
eight.2 DOORS

viii.1 WINDOWS

Figure 8-1 Casement window showing parts and hardware — Figure eight-1 Casement window showing parts and hardware

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There are a number of options for upgrading the energy efficiency of your windows. Windows can be repaired by servicing hardware such as latches, cranks and locks or retrofitted with caulking and weatherstripping or calculation glazing and storm windows. At times the best choice is full window and frame replacement with new, high-performance Free energy STAR® certified windows or inserts. If the frames are yet in good status, inserts (i.eastward. new sash and glazing units) can be a adept option, especially for homes with heritage status.

8.1.one Replacing glazing, sashes and windows

Properly installed energy-efficient windows make homes more comfortable by reducing drafts and increasing the temperature of the interior side of the window, reducing condensation. Energy-efficient windows volition have many of the post-obit features:

double-, triple- or even quadruple-glazing
low-emissivity (low-Due east) glass
inert gas, such argon or krypton in the sealed unit
low conductivity or warm-edge spacer confined
insulated frames and sashes
good air tightness

If your inspection has revealed serious problems with a window's glazing, sash or the entire unit, your best option will be to replace all or role of the window.

For example, if the glazing is only a unmarried pane of glass or is in poor status, you can buy a new sealed glazing window insert. If the frame is in poor condition, information technology may be fourth dimension to replace the unit.

viii.1.2 Taking stock

Check each window for signs of damage: rot, mould and/or staining on or around the window, the status of the glass, putty and paint, weatherstripping and the operation and condition of the hardware. Some windows may need only small air sealing work, while others crave major upgrading or even replacement. Check for air leakage effectually the frame and at all movable joints. Combine a visual inspection with a test using a leak detector as described in Department ii, "How your house works."

8.ane.three Condensation problems

Interior surface condensation and frosting are mutual complaints. Sometimes the problem is lite fogging on some windows; at other times, there may be persistent and heavy frost covering the glass. Many homeowners purchase new windows only to observe that the problem becomes worse because the old, leaky windows actually helped to reduce humidity. The new windows seal the house more tightly, causing a ascension in humidity. I solution is to reduce humidity levels in the firm.

Figure 8-2 Double-hung window showing parts and air-leakage paths — Effigy 8-ii Double-hung window showing parts and air-leakage paths

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For more than information on wet and condensation, meet Section 2, "How your house works," and Section four, "Comprehensive air leakage control."

Alternatively, you can increase the surface temperature of the window and frame by adding another layer of glazing. New energy-efficient windows are the best solution.

When condensation forms between panes on non-sealed glazing units or storm windows, moist firm air has leaked by the inner pane and condensed on the outer pane. Even dry houses can suffer from this blazon of condensation problem. This problem is common on second storeys where in that location is more air being pushed out the window considering of the stack outcome. The solution is to weatherstrip the inner sash to forbid air leakage; make sure that the weep holes on the storm windows, which allow water to escape, are open up to the outside.

If condensation occurs inside a sealed double-glazed unit of measurement, the problem is best corrected by replacing the glazing unit of measurement. Although some specialty companies can refurbish sealed glazing units that have failed, this is considered a temporary fix that will not offer the same original energy efficiency. Check to see if the window is still under warranty.

8.1.4 Interior caulking

Window air leakage can be reduced by applying a continuous bead of caulk around the window trim where it meets the wall, at the mitred joints of the trim, and between the trim and the frame (meet Figure 8-iii). Make sure the caulk is intended for indoor use (do not use exterior caulking indoors), can be painted and is of practiced quality. For more than information about caulking products, see Part three.3, Air bulwark materials.

Figure 8-3 Where to caulk the joints of a fixed window; Shim space, Caulking — Figure 8-3 Where to caulk the joints of a fixed window

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If a window is particularly leaky and the trim can be easily removed and re-installed, remove the trim, add insulation and seal the gap before reapplying the trim. If the gap is small, six mm (¼ in.) or less, insulating the gap followed by caulking may suffice. Larger gaps may require either a backer rod with caulking or low-expansion cream (see Effigy eight-four).

To further reduce air leakage, apply a layer of red technical tape to cover the joint between the wall and window frame. Ensure that the tape will exist subconscious by the trim as information technology cannot be painted and red adhesive may remain after excess tape is removed.

8.1.5 Exterior caulking

Exterior caulking is the last and weakest defence force against pelting entering a wall from the outside. The all-time defence against window and door wall leakage includes the post-obit two items:

properly applied flashing (i.e. top window flashing is underneath the air barrier, while side and bottom flashings are on top of the air barrier)
a properly detailed drainage plane

Caulking on the exterior of a window should be done just after interior sealing is complete. If the outside is caulked first, it tin can trap warm, moist air in the wall, which over time, can damage the wall.

8.1.6 Weatherstripping

Weatherstrip windows around the sash to reduce air leakage. If the windows practise non have to be opened and do not serve as emergency exits, they can exist locked and caulked. Where storm windows are installed, seal the inside window more tightly than the outside window to reduce condensation problems.

TECHNICAL NOTE

Building codes require that every sleeping accommodation have at least one window that opens from the inside to allow escape in case of emergency. Exist mindful of this requirement before deciding to seal close certain windows."

Many types of weatherstripping are available. Table three-4 lists some of the more than common varieties of weatherstripping, though it is certainly not an exhaustive list. Try to visit a window and door supplier that stocks a wide variety of original manufacturer products. For newer windows with born weatherstripping that has lost its effectiveness over time, pry out a sample and have it to the window manufacturer or supplier for replacement with the same type. Cheaper products are usually less durable and less effective, so do non choose merely on the ground of price.

Preparation and installation are of import and typically involve the following steps:

Endeavour to adjust and square windows that are out of alignment.
Remove erstwhile weatherstripping, caulking and blobs of paint from contact surfaces. If the surface is very uneven, utilize a dewdrop of caulking under the weatherstripping or fill, sand and paint the surface to go far smooth.
Clean the surface with a clean cloth and fast-drying mineral spirits or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone).
Apply the weatherstripping. With doors and windows that are used often, you may desire to reinforce the adhesive types with staples.
Check the window for smooth operation and ensure all hinges, slides and hardware operate freely and correctly.
Periodically check the weatherstripping for wear.

i) Double-hung and single-hung windows

Double-hung and unmarried-hung windows should be weatherstripped on the sides, top and lesser of the moving sash, as shown in Effigy 8-5. Caulk air leaks around the fixed portion of the window.

Sides

The thin plastic V-type weatherstripping is a good choice. Open up the window and slip the stripping up the fissure betwixt the sash and the frame, with the mouth of the V facing the exterior. It need only extend to 25 mm (1 in.) above the top of the closed window. You can do a better job if you showtime remove the stop and the bottom sash.

Top

Weatherstrip the space where the two sashes meet past removing the lower sash and applying V-type weatherstripping to the upper window from the within.

Bottom

Apply V-type or pinch-type neoprene rubber to the windowsill where the airtight window volition sit down or to the bottom of the moving window sash itself.

ii) Sliding windows

Sliding windows with sashes typically utilise brush weatherstripping that will require removing the sash and pulling the former weatherstripping out of its slot. Cutting the new textile to the length required and snap or slide it into the slot. Tack, staple or mucilage each cease of the brush material to ensure that the weatherstripping stays in place before reinstalling the sash.

Sashless sliders – panes of drinking glass not encased in a frame – are inefficient. At the very to the lowest degree they should exist supplemented with interior tempest windows. Ameliorate all the same, supercede them with energy-efficient units.

three) Swing-blazon (hinged) windows

Swing-type (hinged) windows are treated similar doors. Apply weatherstripping to the frame so it meets the edge of the sash or place it on the stop where it volition run across the face of the sash. The force of a closed window against the weatherstripping makes a pressure seal. Hinged windows usually require a combination of Five-strip and compression-type weatherstripping. Hinges and locking hardware may complicate the job. Sometimes, more than than one weatherstrip will therefore exist needed in those areas.

Figure 8-5 Where to weatherstrip a single hung window;Weatherstrip the side of the sash; Weatherstrip the upper and lower sashes; V-strip INSIDE; Weatherstrip the sill — Figure eight-5 Where to weatherstrip a unmarried hung window

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8.1.7 Storm window systems

Single-glazed windows lose about 10 to 20 times equally much heat as the same expanse of a properly insulated wall. Storm windows or double-glazed sealed units will reduce the heat loss by nearly one-half.

Storm windows can exist installed on the inside or the outside, can exist permanent or seasonal, and tin can be made to club.

Exterior tempest window systems

Exterior storm windows were once very mutual and continue to serve a useful role in many applications. They are usually constructed of a wood or metallic frame, with glass or an acrylic sail as glazing.

Outside storm windows can be either seasonal (installed in the fall and removed in the spring) or permanent. Seasonal storm windows should be inspected each twelvemonth earlier installation to ensure that the glazing, putty and weatherstripping are in skillful status. A drawback of seasonal units is the labour involved in installing and removing them each year, as well as the need for storage. Permanent outside tempest windows are usually equipped with a built-in screen and a sliding sash.

When you apply outside tempest windows, the chief interior window must exist air sealed more tightly than the storm window to preclude moist household air from entering the space between the windows and being trapped, where it can condense and cause deterioration of the sash and frame.

Interior storm window systems

Interior storm windows are generally attached directly to the window frame, which helps reduce air leakage effectually the window. To minimize condensation and air leakage, interior storm windows should exist sealed tightly so that no warm air gets between the storm unit and the original window later on installation.

Interior storm windows are lighter and more accessible than seasonal outside storm windows especially on upper floors. A disadvantage is that blinds or other window treatments may have to be repositioned to arrange the tempest window.

Interior storm windows are typically used in the winter only and are stored for the remainder of the year. Even so, in an air-conditioned house, they can also help go on heat out and cool air in during the hot summertime months.

There are two common interior storm window system options – heat-shrink film with double-sided tape and clear rigid acrylic sheets with magnetic seals.

Figure 8-6 Brush weatherstripping on a sliding window; INSIDE; SASH MOVEMENT; Sash; Brush-type weatherstripping — Figure eight-6 Brush weatherstripping on a sliding window

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i) Heat-shrink pic with double-sided tape

These inexpensive, temporary, do-it-yourself kits are sold at most hardware and building supply stores and include instructions for installation. With this system, two-sided tape attaches the film to the window trim, after which the moving picture is heated with a pilus dryer to shrink it tightly across the window. In most cases, the film can be used only once.

Although this system provides an fantabulous seal and skilful visibility, the two-sided tape tin lift paint when it is removed. As well, in one case this organisation is installed, the window cannot be opened without removing or puncturing the picture show.

Points to proceed in mind:

Lightweight film may be damaged if you have young children or pets in the house.
Plastics must be kept away from potent heat sources.
Some people may exist sensitive to plastics, which can emit odours, peculiarly when their surfaces are warmed by sunlight.

two) Clear rigid acrylic sheets with magnetic seals

This seasonal system is more durable than plastic film but more expensive; plus, it may require the services of a contractor. To install a magnetic seal system, a metal strip is fastened to the window trim using double-sided tape (this strip tin can exist painted to match the frame). A magnetic moulding is then secured to the acrylic sheet and the sheet is pressed into place on the metal strip.

When the acrylic sheets are not in use, they must exist stored in a apartment or vertical position (not slanted) and in a cool identify protected from exposure to sunlight and excessive heat. The rigid glazing is easier to clean and has a more than finished appearance than compress movie.

Some plastic supply stores sell these systems (and the advisable cleaning products) and tin can cut the sheets to the size required. As well, some firms specialize in manufacturing and installing these systems.

Specialty products

There are two products that are well-nigh suitable for areas that have very loftier solar gains that brand the room too hot: applied window films and multi-layered polyester films. Films are ordinarily professionally practical with some precautions.

Applied window films are ordinarily made from a clear or tinted polyester substrate with a scratch-resistant coating on one side and an adhesive with a protective liner on the other. Multi-layered polyester films are black on one side and silver on the other. The film is permanently attached to the window by removing the liner and pressing it firmly on the glass.

Window films with a solar-control blanket reduce solar gain and help protect carpet, draperies, furniture and wood from fading. They should not be used on all windows as they offer very little increased insulation and greatly cut downwardly on solar gain, which could atomic number 82 to college free energy bills during the heating flavour. There is also a small risk of glass breakage due to increased thermal stress and the utilize of these films may void the warranty issued by the original window manufacturer.

Figure 8-7 Compression and sweep weatherstipping on a casement window; INSIDE; SASH MOVEMENT; Sweep-type weatherstripping; Compression-type weatherstripping — Figure eight-7 Compression and sweep weatherstipping on a casement window

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Curtains and blinds can help reduce radiant heat loss from windows during the heating season and reduce solar gain during the summer. Shutters, shades, awnings and copse can likewise reduce solar gains during the summer. Close window coverings during the solar day and open windows at night for ventilation.

During the heating season, insulated drapes offer somewhat more benefit than not-insulated drapes and blinds. However, as defunction and blinds are not airtight, they may cause window condensation bug in the winter.

viii.1.8 Skylights

Skylights unremarkably suffer from water leakage and condensation around the frame and curb or tunnel. For operable skylights, ensure that hardware is working and all seals are in good order. Keep rain out by repairing outside seals and flashings. Curbs and interior tunnels around the skylight must exist well insulated and air sealed to reduce condensation. Reduce summer overheating with light-reflective glazing and blinds.

Do not open up a skylight (or upper storey window) in hot weather if the house air temperature is cooler than the exterior air. Opening the skylight draws hot air into the house, negating the effectiveness of air conditioning or natural cooling.

8.1.9 Information on buying new windows and doors

Helpful publications publications on energy-efficient windows and doors can exist found at our Publications website.

8.2 DOORS

Poor installation, years of hard use, shifting foundations and seasonal warping tin can often forcefulness hinged doors and sliding drinking glass patio doors to go out of square with their frames. If doors practice not fit snugly, fix or supervene upon the door, frame, hardware, gaskets and weatherstripping. The aforementioned techniques for preparing windows (as explained in Part viii.one, Windows) use to all doors including whatever needed repairs or adjustments, surface grooming and cleaning for the weatherstripping.

Weatherstrip the top and sides of the door frame as illustrated in Figure 8-8, Role A and Effigy viii-8, Function B. The easiest and most effective weatherstripping for a door frame is a good quality Five-shaped vinyl blazon. Information technology makes contact with the edge of the door and provides a skilful seal even when the door warps from season to season.

For increased protection, attach weatherstripping to the stop so that it presses confronting the face of the door every bit shown in Figure viii-viii, Part A.

There are also many types of combination metallic and cream or rubber weatherstripping that are screwed to the finish. They should exist adapted regularly to conform to the changing warp of the door.

Employ weatherstripping to either the door sill (see the threshold in Figure viii-8, Part C) or to the door itself. Although this tin be a difficult area to seal well, it is worthwhile doing because this is oftentimes a source of major drafts. Apply durable material that tin can withstand traffic and is flexible plenty to conform to changes in the door caused past fluctuations in humidity and temperature. The weatherstripping should also exist like shooting fish in a barrel to replace. A proficient seal can commonly exist obtained with gasketed door-bottom weatherstripping that attaches to the door, or with full or partial threshold weatherstripping that is attached to the door sill.

When the weatherstripping is applied to the door itself, a very durable textile is necessary. The most effective selection is the combination type, which is merely tacked or screwed along the bottom inside surface of the door. In that location should exist slots that allow for some aligning of the weatherstripping.

There is a wide variety of door weatherstripping on the market, including kits that include weatherstripping and threshold or door bottom seals. Some products come up with replacement seals. Look for loftier-quality, durable products.

For sliding patio doors, replace weatherstripping and hardware when worn. Replace poor condition sliding patio doors with ENERGY STAR® certified units or with French or garden-style doors and additional energy-efficient windows. In the acting, older patio sliding doors non used in wintertime tin can be sealed with removable sealant or covered with rut-shrink film.

Figure 8-8 Methods of weatherstripping a door — Figure viii-eight Methods of weatherstripping a door

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viii.2.1 Contracting the work

Air sealing and repairing windows and doors tin go part of the work of an air sealing contractor (run across Section iii, "Materials"). If you are having merely some of the windows or doors replaced, ask the contractor to check and supplant defective weatherstripping on the remaining units.

8.2.2 Window and door contractors

When getting estimates, brand sure the contractor has experience in the type of work you desire done. Ask the contractor if the visitor offers a third-party warranty on products and services.

Dorsum: Section 7: Insulating walls Next: Section ix: Operating your business firm

Source: https://www.nrcan.gc.ca/energy-efficiency/homes/make-your-home-more-energy-efficient/keeping-the-heat/section-8-upgrading-windows-and-exterior-doors/15643

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